Trojmiasto (Tri-City). This contemporary term encompasses the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot, and Gdynia, located on the Polish seaside, and, more specifically, in the Gdansk bay. While the Trojmiasto is in effect situated by the sea, allowing for easy access to the beach, not many people are aware of the fact that here, apart from beaches, one can also find forests and mountains (well, maybe “hills” would be more appropriate), very charming ones at that, and quite steep. These are the Oliwskie hills, said to embrace the cities from the south. And if one prefers lakes, then it isn’t far at all from here to Kashubian Switzerland.
Gdansk, Sopot, Gdynia-three neighboring cities, yet how different from one another in character! Gdansk with its more than one thousand years of tradition, streets alive with a multilingual buzz, a huge port and shipyards. Sopot, decidedly younger, quieter and more private, yet consistently ranked high among cities with the friendliest residents. And Gdynia, still young, not quite a hundred years old, but, like every youngster, full of energy and dynamism. These three cities are closely related, yet each city goes its own way and doesn’t force its particular approach on the remaining two. Even those who occupy decision-making positions in these towns know and respect this.
“The cities and provinces which make up our metropolis are a force in their diversity-in their greatness, potential, high level of development, tradition”- says the president of Gdynia, Wojciech Szczurek. “Let’s concentrate on taking advantage of these resources, which the cities and provinces making up our metropolis possess: beautiful, monumental, thousand-year-old, touristic Gdansk, or picturesque, spa-oriented Sopot or else in open and dynamic Gdynia. The residents of Gdynia are eager to take their guests on walks along the Motlawa river, or to Neptune in old town. However, to top off one’s visit to the Trójmiasto, even for the dedicated lover of monuments, it is a necessity is to visit the Gdynia Aquarium, on the “Dar Pomorza” or the ORP Blyskawica, WWII destroyer converted to a museum.
Not everyone is aware of the fact that Gdansk (Gdunsk, Danzig, Gedania) isn’t much younger than Krakow. Gdansk received city rights in 1263, only six years after the old Polish capital. Warsaw was then a small settlement on the bank of the Wisla river, passed over by the wealthier and influential figures of that time, who had their headquarters in Czersk and Plock. Historical books contain mentions of Gdansk from over one thousand years ago. And it was from Gdansk, which was then a Prussian village, that Saint Wojciech (Saint Adalbert) would set forth to hold back the pagan tribes of Baltow. Contrary opinion is incorrect in maintaining that Gdansk, was historically a German city. The truth is that it was under Crusader and German rule for not more than 300 years. The city’s years of prosperity happen to fall during those times, when it was controled by the Polish Crown.
Gdansk, located at the mouth of the Wisla or in English Vistula River, where it flows into the Baltic, was the Polish gateway to the world. It was under the administration of a Polish king that Gdansk, which then belonged to the Hansy union, experienced its greatest years of prosperity and was the most powerful city in Northern Europe. In contrast, the city’s periods of stagnation fall on those years when ruled by Prussians because the city was cut off from the rest of Poland, which was a natural complement to commercial Gdansk.
Hanseatic splendor left its mark and today, wandering through Gdansk we can admire monuments which in expression and appearance are nearly identical to those found in Lübeck or in Dutch cities. Many artists admired the city, including a Polish writer Deotyma (Jadwiga Luszczewska), who was so taken with the city that she decided to set her novel “the girls from the window” here. Her book wonderfully captures the multicultural and multiethnic character of the city.
Long Street, the main street in old town Gdansk, throbs with life until the late evening hours, and is a required stop for every tourist. The town hall is found on this street, and it is this road one should take to get to the Long Market. It also leads tourists to the courtyard wherein proudly stands Neptune’s fountain, the symbol of the city. At the end of this route, known as the King’s Way, the Golden Gate, which was once a gateway to the wide world, can be found. Going farther leads to the shore by which, long ago, ships full of all sorts of goods would dock, waiting in line for Zuraw, once the biggest crane in all of medieval Europe. When writing about Gdansk, one must remember to add that the city was, and still is today, the hub of amber crafts. This is why no one should be surprised by the multitude of stores and workshops, shaping this “gold of the north”, and this is also why one should set aside some time to visit the Amber Museum, coming face to face with exhibits which simply take everyonce’s breath away. Soon all tourists will be able to admire the amber alter in Saint Brigitte’s church. The intrepid are tempted by the Marine Museum on the other side of the canal, and by the commercial ship S.S. Soldek docked out front. After all, it is a seaside town.
If, when visiting Gdansk, you want to take a break from the present, you can’t miss the Oliwska Cathedral. Curiosity hunters will be pleased to learn that this is the longest church in Poland (107 m). But that’s not all: it’s worth it to listen to the famous organs which decorate the interior.
In front of the Gdansk Shipyard tower three majestic crosses, erected in memory of those who fell in the workers’ strikes of 1970. Erecting a monument was one of the conditions named in 1980 by the striking workers. It was in front of this monument in 1987 that John Paul II said: “The sea speaks to us of the mutual need to seek each other out. Of the need for meetings and cooperation. Of the need for solidarity. Among us, and among nations. How significant is the fact that this word “solidarity” was first uttered here, overlooking the Polish sea.”
Gdansk is a city in where ancient history is woven into the newer and most recent. It was here that World War II broke out. By visiting Westerplatte one’ll be able to imagine what the defenders of this outpost felt when in those early September days of 1939 they heard the thunder of artillery coming from the armored ship “Schleswig-Holstein”, docked directly opposite the Polish Army Transit Warehouse.
Not far from Oliwa, the city with the before mentioned longest church, lies Sopot, a place entirely different from Gdansk. It was founded not more than two hundred years ago, as a spa and summer resort. Beautiful beaches, a seaside forest, and an aura of peace and quiet has encouraged the citizens of Gdansk to visit it. The many attractions found here became very popular, hotels were built, and people came to Sopot to rest from as far away as Berlin. And so it remains today; during the summertime Sopot welcomes tourists from all over Europe. Wide clean beaches, connected with huge oases of greenery encouraging one to relax are some of the great advantages of this city.
A required attraction for all visitors to Sopot is the longest wooden pier in all of Europe (512 m) at the end of which one can experience a microclimate similar to that of an island. It should come as no surprise that the pier is host to tourists year-round. The wooden structure opens out onto a spectacular panoramaFrom Gdansk all the way to Orlowo (A neighborhood of villas in Gdynia), and encompassing the city itself as well as the Grand Hotel located by the beach. Although pricey the Hotel remains a great attractions including gamblers desirous of strong emotions. Not one has left a hefty sum there. During tennis season, players from all over gather there on the famous clay courts of the Sopot Tennis Club. Many competions are held, the most famous being the Prokom Open tournament, also known as the Polish Wimbledon.
Gdynia is a new city, which began to grow from a Kashubian fishing settlement during the 1920’s. The port was constructed, literally, in a bare field, which until World War II competed with Gdansk, intercepting much of their cargo. In adition to attractions listed already by president Szczurek, there are many other such as the Kosciuszko Square, by which “Dar Pomorza” and the destroyer “ORP Blyskawica” are docked. For many years Dar Pomorza functioned as a school beneathopen sail for generations of Polish sailors. Climbing aboard one can feel the aura of distant journeys to unknown lands. It was this very ship that Captain Karol Olgierd Borchard mentioned in his book “Znaczy Kapitan”: whoever once came aboard, fell in love with the ship for the rest of their lives. Just beside is docked the “ORP Blyskawica” a brave destroyer having proved itself in times of war. A visit to this ship is worth the time, for this is the one opportunity to see and imagine what the Polish sailors felt as they traversed the cold and gray Atlantic under the protection of military escort. Not far away, on the opposite side, is the Aquarium. Here we can admire sea creatures inhabiting salt and fresh waters from all over the globe.
From this port sailing enthusiasts set out on voyages out to the Baltic, and out onto other waters as well, polishing their skills and confronting their youthful vision of the adventurous sea with reality.
To the tourist who wishes to experience the Trójmiasto atmosphere, these three cities have many attractions to offer. Once tired of admiring the city, everyone can take a moment to relax in one of the many restaurants. There, at a manageable price, a variety of foods can be found, even directly on the beach.
In Gdansk, monumental interiors and outdoors pulse with life all year around. Music of the classical masters makes up the repertoire of the organ festival, one of the only festivals of its kind, a part of the Musical Spring in Gdansk. The Good Humor Festival is also entertaining, and the “International Shakespeare Festival” transports one into the world of theater, while the streets of Gdansk come alive during the Outdoor and Street Theater Festival, “FETA”. Sailing regattas and the “szanty” or seiler songs festival attract not only members of the sailing brotherhood. Concerts given by the most famous of Polish music stars organized near the Oliwa Gate attract tens of thousands of fans.
Sopot also presents many cultural types of entertainment. The above mentioned pier, hosts once a year the “Open Air Festival”, a celebration lasting several days, aimed rather at youth, with mostly rock music performances. Lovers of more traditional music are invited to the Forest Opera, where once a year the “Song Festival” takes place.
Travelling around the Trojmiasto area isn’t difficult, each one of the three cities has public transportation – to get from Gdansk to Sopot or Gdynia it is best to take the “Express City Train”. Going by car becomes more difficult, due to the traffic common to concentrated cities. If one happens to have a bit more free time, during the summer season, a trip by boat along the coast, or even out to the Hel, with attractions such as a lighthouse (functional to this day) and “fokarium” (seal house) is highly recomended.
The success of the Trojmiasto as a tourist destination is confirmed yearly. “Gdansk was chosen by tourists over Gdynia and Sopot, and the whole Trójmiasto area was chosen over Warsaw, Olsztyn, Wroclaw, and Poznan.” Says Wojciech Wronski, director of marketing services for “Eurotest”. “Only when compared to Kraków does the Trojmiasto region take second place.”
The Trójmiasto is more than just a heritage park, monuments, and tourist attractions. Gdansk and Gdynia are fast developing industrial and academic centers. Many institutions associated with sea trade as well as colleges attract businessmen and youth from all over the country. These cities are also in touch with their neighbors on the other side of the Baltic, which are easily reached by ferry. Great things are expected in the year 2012, when the European Soccer Championships will take place. Gdansk will be one of the cities chosen to host group matches. Guests that will arrive will definitely want to come back here in their free time, after the championships are over. Because whoever visits Trojmiasto once, and feels the sea wind on their face, will forever remain enchanted with this magnificent place.
Wieslaw Gogacz, chairman of the Association of the Friends of Tricity “NEPTUNE” in America
The names of streets in Poland, as everywhere in the world, are often the same. However the Gdansk Ogarna is the only one. My childhood, spent on that street, brings back two sights to my mind – on one side ruins of old houses, on the other – the tower of the Town Hall of the Main City. The town-hall clock set the rhythm of the day for us.
We dashed out of the courtyard just to find ourselves at the Neptune fountain, and my school, which was within 5 minutes walk from Motlawa River.
I will always keep in mind the ruins on the Granary Island. As I grew up, Gdansk grew as well. And it grew more and more beautiful. Houses, churches and other buildings, reconstructed for years, have regained their former splendor. Now when I come back to my beloved town, when I walk along the Long Bridge, I am enchanted by the sight of picturesque houses on both sides of the Crane, vis à vis which, in summertime, the marina is vibrant with life. And when I visit my old apartment in Ogarna Street and I look out of the window I can still see the town-hall tower, the same but even more beautiful. And along the street where I used to run with other children there is a row of restored houses, the ground floor which is occupied by cafés, galleries and boutiques.
Gabriel Bienkowski, a graduate from the Gdansk University of Technology, for years employed at the Design Office of the Shipbuilding Industry.
I spent all my childhood and youth in Sopot. My home was near the beach, in Budzisz Street, at the foot of a morainal hill called the “Frying Pan“. In the sixties the Gdansk Archaeological Museum carried excavations there. Those works resulted in finding remains of an early-medieval castle. On behalf of my father I kept watch on those excavations, which meant that several times in the evening I went out with my Saint Bernard dog and walked around the marked excavation ground. Perhaps it was just then that my fascination with history began…Today the entire hill is surrounded with a fence and if you want to visit the castle you have to buy a ticket. Not far from my home there was a shallow pond overgrown with reed. Me and my friends hid there from our parents as we did not want them to notice that we were smoking cigarettes. Then the pond was filled up, and a big circus tent was set up, which became the Summer Theatre. Also, not far from my home there was a tennis-court and the famous “Monciak”, i.e. the Monte Cassino Heroes promenade. What beautiful girls you could meet there! You had only to take a seat in a garden of one of numerous cafés and watch, and enjoy the sight. The promenade runs to the jetty, the longest wooden pier in Europe, ranked among the most beautiful ones.
Lech Figurski, a graduate from the University of Gdansk, a psychotherapist.
When I was a child the character of my father’s job made us move from one place to another. I was 14 when we settled in Gdynia. Everything there was different from what I had seen before. I was enchanted by the seaside boulevard and trolleybuses – Gdynia is probably the only city in Poland where you can see buses “with suspenders”. We lived near Kosciuszko Square on Zeromski Street. I had a chance to watch the solemn changing of the guard at the Gratitude Statue (to whom and for what I will not recall). I also witnessed another changing of the guard – Dar Pomorza (Pomerania’s Gift), which is a sailing frigate after she had given good, long service and was replaced by Dar Mlodziezy (Youth’s Gift), a sailing ship. When it was getting warm me and my friends shortened our lessons and ran to the beach or, even more willingly, to the soccer stadium where our favorite team, Arka Gdynia, played. We took bus number 104 and went to the loop, then along the boulevard to Ejsmond Street, and to the famous hill. It was so exiting!
We also liked the Orlowo cliff. In spite of the ban we stubbornly climbed the easy slope, took a rest for a moment and ran down it. Many years later I used to go there for a walk with my children. Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia are viewed by Poles from other regions of the country as one organism, just Tricity. But no citizen of Gdansk, Sopot or Gdynia, being asked where he is from, will answer that he is from Tricity. When the question: “Where are you from?” is asked my wife (coming from Gdansk) immediately answers: “From Gdansk”. And I immediately add: “Speak for yourself. I am from Gdynia”.
